Tofu Vegan.

"Sichuan and Hunan cooking done entirely with tofu, mushrooms and gluten — and it is very good."

Tofu Vegan is where London finally understood that Chinese vegan cooking is a cuisine, not a compromise. Aubergine in chilli sauce, cumin 'lamb' skewers, mapo tofu with real numbing heat. Bookings are hard; go at odd hours.