Fallow.

"Zero-waste modern British cooking where the vegetable dishes routinely outshine the protein."

Fallow built its reputation on using the whole of everything, and in practice that means a kitchen unusually good at vegetables. Mushroom parfait, cod's head and dry-aged produce sit alongside plates of brassicas and pulses handled with the same seriousness. It is not a vegan restaurant, but it is one of the few London dining rooms where a plant-led order feels like the smart one.