David Bann.

"My first stop in Edinburgh. Proper vegetarian cooking that is inventive, not worthy."

I make a point of stopping at David Bann every time I am in Scotland. It is tucked just off the Royal Mile on St Mary's Street, dark, calm and grown-up, and it has been doing proper vegetarian food for the best part of two decades. The cooking roams about: Thai-spiced fritters, beetroot and goat's cheese pudding, sharp seasonal salads. It is all the better for it. Vegan and gluten-free versions are handled without anyone making a fuss. This is what vegetarian dining should be: inventive on the plate, not a lecture at the table. I rate it.